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Posts Tagged ‘tailoring’

Steampunk Chic

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

The iconic tailor Gresham Blake is a favourite of sharply suited men from Nick Cave to Ray Winstone, and he’s just launched his next collection, ‘Tough Tailoring’. This modish series takes its inspiration from the values of the traditional working class to complement his off-the-peg and made-to-measure offerings.

For this collection, Blake has created donkey jackets in cashmere leather and has used heavier fabrics such as winter tweeds and herringbone for his off-the-peg suit range. It’s accompanied by a stylish two-minute film, set within ‘The Engineerium’, an engineering and steam power museum in Hove, West Sussex. The film introduces models dressed in Gresham Blake working up a sweat by shoveling coal. The action gets altogether steamier as male and female models remove their clothing. The two-minute glimpse into this erotically charged, cinematic world is the work of Steve Glazier for Plastic Pictures.

For Gresham, the undisputed star of the film is the engineerium itself. He explains, ‘I wanted to mix old details with modern pieces so this was the ultimate juxtaposition. As for setting the film in ‘The Engineerium’, I am obsessed with craftsmanship, longevity things that were built to last. I love the way that steam engines were functional and but well designed. If you look at the boiler door, even that is embellished with fine details.’

While the steam age was one of history’s most significant revolutions, Blake notes how technology has impacted on advertising, design and visual culture. He says, ‘Steam was as important to the Victorians as technology is to us today. When it comes to interactive technologies, I am a receptive audience and I wanted to put myself at the forefront at the moving image revolution, which is the future of fashion and luxury communication.’

Whether you’re a receptive Steampunker in the making or just intrigued by what promises to be one of this year’s most striking developments, there’s no denying that the talented Mr Blake is continuing to push boundaries and create new worlds of fashionable attainment.

Find out more at www.greshamblake.com

Sartorial Bliss

Friday, April 9th, 2010

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Jean Cocteau once said that art produced ugly things that became more beautiful with time and that fashion became more ugly.

Gresham Blake launched his bespoke menswear and clothing company in 2000. Re-imagining Cocteau’s dictum for the 21st century, Blake aimed to devise a sartorial solution for people who could take centre stage in the cocktail party, important business pitch or boardroom.

Specialising in Savile Row inspired tailoring with a rock star twist, Gresham Blake epitomises classic British tailoring with a playful, subversive edge. Blake officially opened his tailoring outfit and store in 2000, rapidly earning himself a cult following from the cognoscenti by re-positioning stereotypes of ‘Britishness’ .

Blake’s bespoke, made to measure and ready to wear suits and product range hold universal appeal and somehow he unifies the white-collar plutocrat with the stylish anarchist. Combining floral designs or witty linings with quality tailoring, the suit itself may be sober and cut to perfection but carries a dandyish element. With bright patterns or other quirky embellishments, such as a gold or silver button on the sleeves, Blake delivers conformity and eccentricity.

Oscar Wilde once remarked that fashion was a form of ugliness so intolerable that it needed to be altered every six months. Blake’s tailoring disproves this theory. Despite the typical brand embellishments found in Blake’s ready to wear collection, he will dispense with some of the edgier details if the client wants a more understated option. “Tailoring is a personal business,” he says. “You have to psychologically weigh up the customer and listen to them, rather than tell them what they want. We don’t instill a house style.”

To paraphrase Giorgio Armani, the difference between style and fashion is quality. Blake’s loyal following includes Jimmy Page, Norman Cook,Nick Cave, Tracey Emin, Steve Coogan and Christian Slater. Edgier and more in tune with the spirit of the times that some of the more traditional English tailors, Gresham Blake bends the conventions while paying the greatest respect to the craft.

Email customerservices@greshamblake.com for more information, or call + 44 (0)1273 609 587. www.greshamblake.com

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