QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | tasting menu

CONCIERGE
  • HOME
  • WRITERS
  • TRAVEL
  • FOOD&DRINK
  • CULTURE
  • STYLE
  • CITY GUIDES
  • NEWSLETTERS

Posts Tagged ‘tasting menu’

A Capital Destination

Monday, January 4th, 2010

Capital_main

The Capital Hotel‘s restaurant in Knightsbridge attracted a great deal of acclaim, including two Michelin stars, when Eric Chavot was the incumbent chef. Following his recent departure, the restaurant have recruited Jérôme Ponchelle, who comes with an enviable list of previous experience including The Connaught and Wilton’s, with the aim of keeping and building on the excellent reputation that M. Chavot built at the restaurant.

A recent visit indicated that everything is going very much according to plan. The best way to sample M. Ponchelle’s cooking is probably to opt for the five-course tasting menu which, although it’s boosted by various amuse bouches and other little bonuses, concentrates on extremely high-quality cooking of such combinations as langoustines with slow-cooked pork belly, foie gras with fig chutney and roast fillet of lamb. All of these are presented in an accessible, unpretentious but highly accomplished way. Make sure that you leave room for the cheese board, which must be one of London’s best selections of predominantly French cheese.

As ever with tasting menus, your best bet is to try the sommelier’s suggestion of wines to match each course (not forgetting a port with the cheese), all of which complement the meal beautifully, including some intriguingly offbeat choices alongside the expected French grands vins. All this comes in one of London’s most pleasantly intimate dining rooms in a salubrious Knightsbridge location. One hopes that the restaurant continues to go from strength to strength.

22 – 24 Basil Street, London SW3 www.capitalhotel.co.uk

Morgan M – the best value French cuisine in London?

Friday, November 6th, 2009

morgan_main

Morgan M, unusually for a restaurant of such a high calibre, is not located in Mayfair or Soho, but in a quiet street in a not especially fashionable part of Islington. The building, a converted pub, is similarly low-key, but it’s when you enter the stylishly designed interior that you begin to see what the chef-patron Morgan Meunier has achieved here. Morgan M is widely known to be one of London’s finest French restaurants, offering sublime food and an excellent wine list at incredibly good value prices.

The menu enables you either to have a three-course a la carte, which might include such dishes as ravioli of snails in Chablis to start followed by fillet of venison with hare ravioli, or to try the more decadent six-course tasting menu, available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, which gives a clear picture of Meunier’s culinary achievements. Pleasingly, the food is presented more or less straight, eschewing the foams and frills that seem to have become obligatory with this kind of cooking. A glass of peach-infused champagne might start off a selection of mainly French wines to match each course, each providing a sumptuous accompaniment.

Many neighbourhood restaurants might be described as ‘London’s best-kept secret’, and by writing about Morgan M I’m now concerned that I’ll never be able to get another booking there. But that’s a risk I’ll take. In the meantime, get to Islington for what will undoubtedly be a memorable meal at a far from extortionate price.

489 Liverpool Road, N7. www.morganm.com

« Back