Mayfair’s chic Albermarle Street has stealthily become one of London’s top dining streets with the likes of Hix at the Albermarle, the ever-popular Chor Bizarre and now the latest addition, the sleek and decidedly swish Babbo, which has joined the ranks of London’s top Italian restaurants, thanks to the superb cooking of Douglas Santi, whose fine pedigree includes a great deal of work within the Alain Ducasse empire in Monaco, New York, Paris and Las Vegas.
This cosmopolitan experience feeds (sic) into the varied and eclectic menu, which is obviously based very much in the heartland of Italian food, but also of the more modern and cosmopolitan style that any top-flight Italian eaterie needs to cater to. Therefore, amidst such perennial favourites as beef carpaccio and an antipasti selection are scallop medallions with delicately flavoured mash, just as the traditionally carnivorous main courses find themselves lightened by the fillet of Chianina beef, which is served with delicious porcini mushrooms. A side order of perfectly cooked spinach allows this to feel like an altogether lighter experience. Desserts are of the usual hearty Italian variety, in particular an all-too-tempting chocolate semifreddo.
The wine list specialises in medium and high-end options by the bottle (including a fine 2001 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo), but there are also some more accessible offerings by the glass. Service is accommodating and friendly, and visitors are guaranteed to feel welcome and valued.
39-40 Albermarle Street, London W1. www.babborestaurant.co.uk
