Ulusaba: Branson’s African Pride

If there’s one thing Sir Richard Branson knows, it’s how to spot a good location.
As well as Necker Island in the BVIs, Kasbah Tamadot in the Atlas mountains and a private lodge in Verbier, he also owns a charming rustic game lodge in South Africa called Ulusaba – ideal for safari first-timers, or for those short on time.
Situated on 13,500 hectares of privately owned land on the north-western border of Kruger National Park in a region called Sabi Sands, this little patch of savannah could well have the highest concentration of animal traffic in the whole of Africa. Put it this way: I’d spotted all of the big five within 24 hours of checking in.
There are two lodges here, both offering spacious tribal-chic rooms, some of which have plunge pools. Safari Lodge (11 rooms) is situated on the banks of a dry river bed, and Rock Lodge (10 rooms) is in the mountains, a cool five minutes’ drive away. Choose the Treehouse Suite at Safari Lodge for privacy – access is via a long chain of rope bridges and your only next-door neighbours are the 38 hippos who wallow in the watering hole below your deck. For awe-inspiring views, you can’t beat the Makwela suites at Rock Lodge. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Lembozo mountains of Mozambique.

But the property’s most recent addition, Cliff Lodge, is its pièce de la résistance. Carved out of the rockface behind Rock Lodge, this five-storey house boasts two ultra-luxe glass-fronted suites plus a private gym and pool, all completed last year. It is a remarkable feat of architecture and naturally it’s the preferred choice for Branson when he is visiting with family and friends. Locate the swivel closet in the master suite where he stashes his pith helmet and you can leave him a note…
The atmosphere throughout the sprawling estate is laid back yet professional. The rangers are great company and have encyclopaedic knowledge of the area’s flora and fauna as well as excellent cocktail mixing skills, which come in handy on game drives. These are taken twice daily (at 5.30am and 4.30pm) in soft-seated Land Rover Pumas. Don’t worry if you’re not an early riser, there’s plenty to see on evening drives. Expect cheetahs, impala, white rhino, lions, buffalo, leopards, giraffes, elephants, hippos, warthogs and chameleons, plus the odd black mamba and boomslang snake cooling off on the dusty roads – these coilers are deadly, so keep your eyes peeled.
Like at most safari lodges, meals are communal (although private dining is available) and the shared experience works well, especially when twice a week, dinner is served al fresco in the bush by flaming torch light. Impala steaks, steamed yellowtail fish, moussaka and traditional mealy pup are delivered fresh from the grill onto linen-clad trestle tables.
Feasting in this way, around a raging bonfire under a red African moon, swapping stories from the day’s thrilling adventures, you can’t help but feel thoroughly at one with nature. And best of all, it’s perfectly do-able in a long weekend.
Leo Bear flew to Johannesburg with Virgin Atlantic. Transfers from Johannesburg to Ulusaba’s private airstrip are with Federal Air.
































