QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | Travel

After my glorious visit to Castle Combe’s The Manor House last year, where every amenity and comfort that could be imagined was provided as if it were commonplace, I was all too keen to venture forth to the sister hotel, Lainston House. I was not disappointed; as one would hope and expect, this is a superlative experience, raising the standard for what one expects from ‘a country house hotel’ in the superlative rooms, food and drink and setting.

Located just outside Winchester – literally a ten minute taxi journey – it’s also spitting distance from Stockbridge’s splendid pubs and river walks if you fancied a change of scene. In terms of architecture, the house itself is one of Hampshire’s most notable, being a William & Mary 17th century building, but with sympathetic modern additions that are entirely in keeping with the period. There’s also a ruined chapel in the grounds – ideal if you fancied a rather daringly alternative location for a picnic.

We stayed in the splendidly named ‘Chapel Suite’ just by the old chapel, which offers a superlative range of facilities and comforts, ranging from a jacuzzi and walk-in shower in the bathroom to a widescreen TV that can be summoned out of the foot of the bed at the touch of a button. It might seem as if such luxuries and mod cons are par for the course in high-end hotels these days, but the service and friendliness of the welcome help to lift this into a truly unique category where guests actually feel at home, rather than as if they’re intruding.

Dinner at the Avenue restaurant, which boasts three AA rosettes, was, as expected, a pleasure. Chef Andy MacKenzie has been voted Hampshire’s Food & Drink chef of the year repeatedly, and it isn’t hard to see why. Dishes are locally sourced and are simply but exquisitely cooked; one might start with seared scallops with roast beetroot and butternut squash puree or tea-smoked duck and egg salad, and follow this delight up with the even more delectable pork fillet and belly duo (from pigs reared at the house itself) or lamb saddle, sourced from a flock in Broughton. These delights can be accompanied by a wine from the in-depth list; the French wines are formidable (and priced accordingly), but we enjoyed an excellent 2006 Barbera D’Alba Zio Nando.

Something that promises to be a highlight throughout 2011 is the launch of a new falconry centre, run by former cricketer Billy Taylor. This will offer everything from Sunday morning falconry demonstrations to opportunities to watch birds of prey hunt later in the year. For the romantics amongst you, there’s even the chance to have a owl fly a wedding ring down the aisle on that special day. It would make a pleasant change from a bumbling best man.

Woodman Lane, Sparsholt, Winchester. www.lainstonhouse.com

It was with anticipation, and more than a slight hint of trepidation, that I approached Longjing Village, home to the green tea of the same name. Winding my way into the hills high above sprawling Hangzhou, I worried that my utter distaste for a classic British brew would expose me as a tea virgin, hampering my chances of matching the exquisite tea-drinking etiquette of China.

Longjing eats, breathes and lives tea, especially in spring.  Greeted by weather-worn tea farmer Mr Wang, insatiably chatty and eager to test his English, I was led through the village, verdant with new growth.

We reached one of the many tea plantations; a carpet of green, broken only by the intermittent bobbing of pickers, fuelled by enthusiasm for the new crop. My attempt at mimicking the precise art of picking was met only by despairing head shakes from Mr Wang, his accompanying chuckles confirming that I’d never cut it at Longjing.

Putting me out of my misery, my new acquaintance invited me to his home for a ‘cuppa’. Producing a tea set crafted from bone thin pottery, Mr Wang worked his magic, carefully concocting his elixir in a lengthy process of brewing, transferring, straining and stirring.

Finally pouring his creation into the tiniest of cups that looked as though they should belong in a dolls house, I took a deep gulp and swallowed my pride. The steaming brew engulfed me with its heady scent, watery yet dense with aroma and layers of flavour. My first sip was cautious, but within seconds I’d drunk it down and was coming back for more. I was drinking tea, and enjoying it. Not enjoying it – loving it. I left Mr Wang’s house reluctantly, and beaming with the revelation of how much more there is to tea than I had previously imagined.

Known for its beneficial health properties, Longjing tea is not only the reserve of tea parties. Returning to the Amanfayun Spa, tea treatments were more than appropriate. My feet were revived with a green tea foot bath and scrub, flooding me with the sweet scent I’d left at Mr Wang’s. My therapist treated me to a signature aromatherapy and body wrap, infusing my bones with the green stuff, and leaving me a veritable picture of health.

Hungry with the fruits of my tea-fuelled day, I turned to the second most important spring crop here: bamboo shoots – a staple and markedly rewarding. Choosing the specially prepared tasting menu, I was stunned at the versatility and deliciousness of the humble shoot, delicately fresh, lovingly prepared, and outstandingly showcased as a stalwart of Chinese cuisine. The perfect accompaniment to my dish? A steaming pot of Longjing tea – what a difference a day makes.

www.amanfayun.com

Drowsy with the early morning Lao heat and with an unshakeable lethargy in my tired limbs, I happily clambered aboard a rusty minivan, destined for Laotian hill tribe villages south of Luang Prabang.

A bone-rattling journey ensued, swerving to avoid potholes and stray dogs, and quickly bumping me to my senses. Mountains, vegetable farms, pineapple and banana plantations whizzed past in quick succession, before we arrived, out of nowhere, at the traditional Khmu village of Ban Pa Noh.

Reputed in Laos for being highly superstitious and practising magic to ward off danger, the Khmu people have a rich history which is has been passed down through the generations for centuries. I didn’t visit late enough to witness families gathering around nightly fires to share their tales and pass on their culture, but a snapshot of Khmu life was enough to reveal the unique belief system at work here, where houses are holy and taboo reigns supreme.

Winding higher into the mountains, we reached Ban Tin Pha, home to the Hmong people, famed for fighting during the Laotian civil war. Friendly women busy with embroidery wowed in their bright coloured clothing while gurgling toddlers delighted at running circles around them and between the traditional thatched cottages.

I also visited Ban Long Lao, the biggest Hmong village in the area, which only enforced the rich cultural customs which make Laos so inimitably appealing: the Hmong people were extraordinarily welcoming, and eager to share their traditions.

Gratified and humbled by my experiences, we headed on in the minivan, destined for the organic farm in the remote Laotian hill village of Phongvan. Prepared by now for the winding, unpaved roads, and trusting my driver, I sat back to take in the countryside.

Through dusty windows I spied crouching figures, carefully tending rice crops. We hadn’t travelled far, but the air was cooler in Phongvan, and quiet as the choking engine cut out. My thirst was quenched on arrival by a sugary local ‘cocktail’ that slipped down quickly before the impressive 8-hectare paddy panorama that now revealed itself.

Next mission: food. A young chef with a toothy grin exuding irresistible charm was tasked with expertly guiding me through the preparation of a feast of Tam Mak Hoong and Moo Phak Sikai; spicy Papaya salad followed by an aromatic pork curry, and sticky Lao rice. While the rice bubbled, we readied the ingredients. Juicy papaya, crunchy vegetables and a colourful array of spices quickly sizzled into delectable dishes as day light faded.

We devoured our creations by candlelight: with hunger triumphing over conversation, croaking frogs and chirruping crickets provided a harmony for the soundtrack of evening village life. Appreciating my middle-of-nowhere location, I let out a contented sigh and helped myself to another spoonful of Tam Mak Hoong.

www.amanresorts.com

Fade In

Late Evening: A contemporary boutique hotel, Marylebone, London. Through the distinctly un-hotelish doors of a handsome Georgian façade, past a brace of plush red armchairs by Christopher Guy, we pan round to find a stylish, heated cigar terrace. An air of sophistication and (steadily growing) self-satisfaction curls among the twenty or so cigar aficionado’s, now down to the last inch of their hand-rolled 6inch Trinidad Robustos. Attentive staff breeze in and out with wines and spirits.

Large Chap: …Sunday night in Rome, you have to go with the Julieta
Svelte Swedish Banker: 7 Inch vintage 98?
Large Chap: Or the Double Corona 7.6
Svelte Swedish Banker: You’re kidding?
Large Chap: I don’t kid.
Me: Why can’t I get up? I want to check out the humidor. I’m here to write this place up, you know?
Large Chap: Last inch will do it to you.
Me: Seriously. Why can’t I stand up?

Cut To

Same Terrace. Robustos have been replaced with dark liquor and flutes of Champagne. Filmy eyes accompanied by happy grunts. A Patrick Bateman look-a-like hands over a subtle, off-white coloured business card to a pretty new comer. Man with slick-backed hair sits down opposite the Large Chap, takes a sip of coffee liquor.

Me: The receptionist looks like a queen on that golden throne-like creation. Where did Frederick go?
Large Chap: Who’s that?
Me: That guy with the quiff.
Large Chap: No, that!
Me: Oh, that’s my lady-friend, you know? We have dinner now.
Large Chap: Stay for a while. I’ll buy you the Prince of Wales?
Me: Medium bodied, mild, and you can taste the cedar in it?
Large Chap: (grunts) Exactly. Best paired with a sweeter spirit before dinner.
Girl: Heya. I passed through the Lounge. Very fancy. Someone was eating something that I really want.
Large Chap: Come, take a seat. Let’s get you a drink?
Waiter: Mam, would you like to try a cigar?
Large Chap: Yes, she would. The Petit Julietas. With Scotch?
Me: Or Champagne? But no, we really have to go. Business card?
(Large Chap hands over the card)
Me: Asset Management? (laugh) I took you more for a professional boxer.
Large Chap: I got my nose flattened in Cuba…long story, if you care for it?
Girl: Or a quasi-professional cigar smoker?

Cut To

Behind a Japanese-style lacquered screen lit with minimalist pin lights, a lady in her sixties sits by a window, a lonely romantic, serenaded by the sound of falling rain. The small and cosy Lounge next door is a-glow in rich shades of browns and golds. On one table, a steak with potato wedges in a copper saucepan, and another plate of spinach and ricotta. A bottle of Cheval des Andes is poured out by a distinctive gentleman with emerald cuff-links. Man with slicked-back hair, blue suit and pointy loafers is taking notes.

Me: I should eat something before I come next time. The last inch of your Julietas hit me way too hard.
Girl: You need to put some weight on. Are you eating breakfast?
Me: Nice place, though. Definitely five star since the make over. Wait till you see the room.
Girl: Superior, right?
Me: Two massive flat-screens. Technology all there. Rain shower…I spent ten minutes opening the curtains though. You need to use this remote control.
Girl: Mini-bar with comedy pricelist?
Me: It’s a boutique hotel in Central London. What do you think?

Cigar evening at Ten Manchester Street. Time: 6.30pm. Prices: GBP 30.00 To find out when our next evening is and book your place, please call T 44 (0) 207 3175 900. Places are limited to 20 on the cigar terrace.

www.tenmanchesterstreethotel.com

Of all the places in the world that the modern traveller might find themselves, there are few that are as simultaneously awe-inspiring and freighted with the burden of history as South Africa. Even today, a visitor might find themselves told of a dozen different countries, from an Edenic paradise filled with foliage, wonderful vistas, majestic mountains and unparalleled wildlife, to a nightmarish place stuffed with shanty town housing, where the risk of crime is ludicrously high and where lingering racial tensions still lead to violent outbreaks.

While the scaremongering of the latter still, unfortunately, has some basis in fact, there’s little chance that the average visitor will find themselves bothered by any difficulty on their visit. When I recently visited Cape Town, the most irksome thing that happened was a few over-eager ‘baggage handlers’ at the airport who seized my bags, carried them a few metres and then demanded what I was later assured was a ludicrous fee for doing so. I didn’t mind especially, given that it only came to about GBP 2.

Cape Town itself is Africa’s most popular destination, and it isn’t at all hard to see why. Staying at the superbly comfortable and classy Table Bay hotel, with many of the rooms offering panoramic views over the V & A Waterfront and Table Mountain, one is well equipped for a journey into the unknown. Make sure that you have dinner at the excellent fine-dining Atlantic Grill restaurant, which offers stunning South African cuisine matched with equally excellent wines.

Within a short journey from the hotel there are sights such as the mountain itself, which entirely dominates the city geographically, but also the delightful weekly farmers’ market at the Old Biscuit Mill, serving a weird and entirely wonderful array of produce, or the winelands of nearby Constantia Valley, where the River Cafe serves exceptional food and wine at far from bank-breaking prices.

Yet, for all this, the most awe-inspiring spectacle of them all is the view over the upmarket resort of Camps Bay from the mountains above. Looking out over the expanses of deep blue sea, beautiful sandy beaches and the seemingly never-ending mountains themselves, I was reminded of Wordsworth’s lines from ‘Tintern Abbey’:

‘And I have felt
A presence that disturbs me with the joy
Of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime
Of something far more deeply interfused,
Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns,
And the round ocean and the living air,
And the blue sky, and in the mind of man’

There can, I think, be no higher praise. If for any reason you have yet to visit Cape Town and the surrounding areas, then your life will be a happier and more fulfilled one for a journey there.

If for some reason you fancy a complete change of scene and pace before or after, the infamous Sun City resort, located about two hours from Johannesburg, offers an experience best described as ‘Las Vegas, African style’. The main hotel, The Palace Of The Lost City, offers decor and an ambience that some might find stimulating and fresh, while others might prefer slightly more sedate comforts. However there’s no denying the talking-point aspects of the setting, nor the excellence of the main restaurant, Villa Del Palazzo, which specialises in modern Italian cuisine. A wonderful opportunity, if you get a chance, is to have a safari through the nearby Pilanesberg Park, where, if you’re lucky, you can see wildlife ranging from elephants and rhinos to baboons and zebras, all at far closer quarters than you’d ever see in a zoo.

Enjoy four nights accommodation at The Table Bay Hotel with flights from GBP 1,099 per person, including flights with South African Airways from London Heathrow. Valid for travel between 1 May and 15 June 2011. To book call 0871 703 4240 or visit www.travelbag.co.uk.
A night at the Palace of the Lost City at Sun City starts from GBP 400 per room per night on a B&B basis. www.suninternational.com

A dark haired beauty emerges from the carriage doors at Waterloo, dressed oh so stylishly in a sweeping black cape offset with shining gold buttons, she glances towards the station concourse searching for that one familiar face in the crowd.

And then, there it is the welcoming smile she had been looking for. Within moments she has crossed the space between them, and other passengers stop and stare as banshee like shrieks resonate from the mouths of the two friends who have just been reunited…

Not your typical start to a romantic Valentine’s weekend in London Town. In fact my friend had actually abandoned her fiancé just two days after his proposal, to be my guest in a loved up retreat at one of London’s finest five star boutique hotels – The Athenaeum. Oh the burdens she has to bear as my best pal.

The Athenaeum for those not in the know can be found opposite the leafy delights of Green Park, a hidden jewel nestled in the middle of London’s hotel golden mile, that stretches from The Ritz to The Dorchester.

Rather like an eccentric but loveable British dandy, everything about The Athenaeum screams quirky chic, from the Barbour coat wearing doormen who greeted us on arrival, to the nick-nack-esque feature walls of mismatched pearly king buttons and dissected onions.

My guest and I were ushered to our (ahem) humble abode for the weekend – the aptly named ‘ultimate roof top suite’. Stepping into the foyer of the three bedroom suite, we were exposed to the most stunning view of the London skyline from the floor to ceiling windows that ran the length of the lounge area.

Pink velvet chaise’s, champagne silk curtains and pale gold accents made me feel like I had wandered into the inside of an oyster shell, while the late afternoon light refracted of the chrome and mirrored walls, scattering my reflection into thousands of starburst imitations – a narcissists paradise.

Romantic notions aside, the suite is a techno-geeks dream, complete with seven plasma screens (one of which is magically set behind two way glass in the bathroom mirror), two X Box games consoles, a state-of-the-art Bose sound system in every room, and touch pad controlled lighting with several mood settings including one ideal for illicit liaisons.

The Athenaeum’s ‘Brit Chic’ theme has been continued in the suites décor, in the form of iconic black and white photo’s of the Royal Family and The Spice Girls, as well as quirky miniature black cabs, that have been set inside the Perspex bedside tables

The arrival of a bottle of pink champagne, complete with chocolate dipped strawberries called for drinks on the private balcony, and as we toasted each other and revelled in the magnificence of our surroundings, the night lights of London began to flicker on around us.

Loosened up by our pink fizz, we swapped our civvies for the soft terry cloth robes and slippers laid out in each of our bedrooms and took the lift down to the spa for our relaxing ‘couples’ massage. Using luxurious REN Moroccan Otto Rose Oil products, my muscles were softly lulled into relaxation, while the flickering candle light and delicate strains of exotic music playing in the background, made for a very sensual experience.

After a little post spa soak in my bathrooms Olympic sized jacuzzi bath, my guest and I put our glad rags on and headed downstairs for a 6 course Valentine’s feast. What followed was a riot of different tastes and textures starting with seared salmon fishcake with fiery horseradish foam, followed by a twice poached duck egg on a bed of pressed leek and truffle. A pink champagne sorbet was the ultimate palate cleansing prelude to the saddle of English lamb bathed in a caper, mint and red current jus accompanied by a mountain of fondant potatoes and creamed spinach.

The piece de resistance was the dessert; a divine passion fruit mousse on a bed of crumbling shortbread, with a honey blossom cream almond tuille on the side crowned with a shard of caramelised honey. I honestly could have died a happy girl after such an exquisitely gargantuan supper – then the homemade pink chocolate and champagne truffles appeared and I passed into the gourmands Elysium.

Feeling in the mood for a little post dinner aperitif, my guest and I ventured to the Athenaeum’s legendary Whisky Bar where rather girlishly we opted for a cocktail, instead of sampling one of the 270 different whiskies on offer. However I am happy to report that my Petticoat Lane Martini (a flirtatious mix of Stoli raspberry vodka and elderflower, shaken with lemon and fresh pineapple) was just as good as any dram of Johnnie Walker Blue Label – well in my opinion at least.

After spending the day quite literally gorging on romance, we decided to head upstairs and watch a DVD from the hotel’s extensive library. Our selection? Disney’s The Princess and The Frog of course. With our pyjamas on, lights turned out, Green and Blacks chocolate and ice cream at the ready (courtesy of the luxury complimentary mini bar), we snuggled under the cashmere throw to watch the wonder of true love unfold on the screen before us…

The Valentines Package at The Athenaeum is available from GBP499 per person.
www.theathenaeumhotel.com

I have often dreamt of Morocco as a land straight out of a Scheherazade tale, full of azure pools, flickering amber hues, saffron spiced air and swirling veils. My first impressions of the Amanjena Resort in Marrakech did nothing to shatter my reverie – A sun baked pink palace that appeared as a hazy mirage before my eyes, framed by the vast Atlas Mountains that shimmered in the distance.

The sweet sound of trickling water from the scattered pools and fountains instantly starts to soothe the soul and the scent of rose water in the air is the perfect antidote for the weary traveler.

There are 39 suites in total and I was ushered to one of the Amanjena’s two-storey, two-bedroom Maisons that allowed me to suspend reality and imagine I was living in a traditional Moroccan town house, complete with my own arc cut fireplace, Maillechort candle lanterns, and chaise lounge to recline on while I listen to the soft symphony echoing from the zellij wall fountain.

A short journey through my new abode revealed further untold delights in the form of the domed bathroom in the master suite complete with a stunningly carved Quarzazate green marble bath which I immediately wanted to relax into for several luxuriant hours.

Tearing myself away from the visual feast of the inside of my suite, I ventured towards the brilliant sunlight streaming through my courtyard doors and entered my own private jannah (paradise). I dipped a toe into my private swimming pool, leant down to sample the intoxicating scent from the rose bushes, and sat down for a while under my own shade tree to contemplate the wonders of my good fortune.

If there was one thing that could have made me relax further than I already had, it was a visit to the spa at Amanjena. Taking the form of a traditional Moroccan ‘hammam’ the spa is the ideal place to revitalize and rejuvenate your mind and body, thanks to the centuries old traditions and therapies used by the therapists, with many of the staff who work in the spas having learned ancient local skills passed down from generation to generation.

Laying in the warm heat of the hammam I felt all the impurities being lifted from within my skin, followed by a scalp massage that had me entering a state of absolute bliss.

A light supper of traditional mezze and delicious lamb tagine was served in an intimate Caidal Tent, as the sun sank below the mountains. Sat in my courtyard I sipped the mint tea lovingly prepared for me by my personal butler and pondered the meaning of Amanjena. When translated, Amanjena means ‘peaceful paradise’ and with the desert stars shining above me, I could not think of a more perfect explanation than that.

http://www.amanresorts.com/

With last week seeing whisky consumption peak around Burns’ Night celebrations there’s a good chance your stock has taken a bit of a hit. It is the perfect time, therefore, to start looking for your next bottles. So saying, let me present Dalmore’s new Four Rivers collection.

The collection is inspired by four of Scotland’s most iconic rivers – the Dee, Spey, Tay and Tweed. The characteristics of each river are mirrored by their respective whisky; hence the Spey Dram is elegant and subtle, like the river, while the Dee Dram packs a punch as powerful as its namesake.

As is to be expected from anything created by Dalmore’s legendary Master Distiller, Richard ‘The Nose’ Paterson, they are excellent, the all-important maturation process taking place in barrels made of American white oak and then in those which have held Oloroso sherry, to create a whisky even the Master himself is proud of, a pride which comes through when he teaches us how to taste – you feel he is only half joking when he threatens violence should your technique not do justice to the amber nectar.

Staying next to the cascading waters of the Dee, it’s clear why the distillers are so passionate about the rivers. The scenery is beautiful; mountains, forests and rivers play out in this preternatural landscape, a landscape home to a cornucopia of wildlife, and the country sports which accompany this diversity – visitors can fish, hunt, shoot or just walk, taking in the views and the crisp, fresh air.

With palates ringing from the intense coffee, and almost Christmassy flavours of almonds, oranges and pears of my personal favourite, the Tay Dram to the rich marzipan, marmalade and cinnamon notes of the Tweed; the Dee’s walnuts, plums and liquorice to the treacle and berries of the glorious Spey, the range here is sure to keep you coming back for more.

The link between river and dram does not end there; a donation is made from each sale to the conservation trust for the respective rivers. The last offering of the Dee Dram raised £35,000 (they hope to raise £400,000/year from the new collection) for the river, enough to open up 25 miles of spawning grounds in this great salmon-fishing spot. You can sink back into an armchair after a glorious day of fishing, knowing your restorative dram is not only doing you, but also the rivers, good.

This new collection follows on the tail of other exclusive Dalmore whiskies produced in recent times, one of which, Trinitas, only three bottles will ever be made, is the world’s first six-figure bottle of whisky; predictably, any hopes of a taste were sadly scotched.

For now it looks as though I’m sticking with the Rivers Collection – it certainly won’t be a hardship.

The Rivers Collection

Winter at Jackson Hole, skiing in the Rockies doesn’t get much better than this. On average the mountain gets nearly 500” of snow every season.
It’s late fall and at 7000’ above sea-level the season is quickly changing into the long winter ahead. Most of the Aspen trees in the valley have already dropped their leaves but higher up at Amangani we’re still surrounded in bright yellow.

The temperatures have started to drop to below freezing at night though it still warms up to shirt-sleeve weather by noon, pointing to imminent snow-fall and the opening of the ski area. And what a ski area it is. 2500 acres of in-bound terrain with 116 ‘named’ runs, is just the start. There is nearly unlimited space to carve your own runs through the trees, let alone the 3000-plus acres of back-country access where deep powder and unexplored runs await the adventurous.

Each day at Amangani begins with the Teton Range at your toes. Head down to the Grill for a hearty pre-ski breakfast, before hopping into the Amangani shuttle and down to our private ski-lounge nestled just steps between the Bridger gondola and the high speed tram, where our ski concierge team has stored your skis and boots.

Find out which runs are skiing the best and head up the hill. Take the tram and get out at over 10,000 feet and marvel at the view. Then turn right and make a pass down Rendezvous Bowl over toward Bivouac Woods, then down to the Sublette high-speed quad chair. Repeat until exhausted. Now turn back down to the Amangani Lounge and grab a quick bite and something warm to drink, rest your thighs a bit and do it all over again.

At the end of the day toss your skis down in the lounge, grab a beverage and head back up to Amangani. Right about now a quick dash through the spa to the Jacuzzi followed by a massage would be a great plan.

You’ll need a big meal after a day like today; I’d go for a plate of bison short-ribs and a glass of merlot. You’ve tamed a big mountain today; sleep tonight will be deep and hold dreams of new runs to conquer in the morning. It really doesn’t get much better than this.

http://www.amanresorts.com/amangani