QUINTESSENTIALLY | Insider | Travel

We’re all just big kids at heart and could any of us really resist the chance to act out our childhood dreams of becoming a cowboy – conquering mountains astride our trusty steed or swaggering like John Wayne through the doors of the saloon?

Lying in the heart of the old Wild West, in Southern Utah, I was half expecting the US cavalry to ride over the nearest horizon at any point. It’s this kind of escapism which is encouraged by a break at Amangiri – the beautiful wilderness allows the mind to wander as freely as the deer and the antelope on the plain.

With the adventures of the day ahead it was important to fuel my body in the morning. Fortunately I didn’t find this a major hardship – chowing down on the famous ranch-style eggs just as I imagine Clint Eastwood in Rawhide would have. But for those less interested in the cowboys there is delicious toasted granola, freshly made by the pastry chef, Frances.

After breakfast it was straight into the first adventure of the day as I set off to tackle one of the three Via Ferrata routes on the property. Via Ferrata is Italian for “Iron Road”, and it enabled me to climb the 165-million-year-old rock mesas that surround Amangiri by using a series of fixed iron rungs. These routes are great for the novice, I felt like a pro, but no prior climbing experience is needed. The view from the summit is awe-inspiring – the silence and the scenery took my breath away. The stunning Lake Powell, imperious Navajo Mountain and the simply spectacular Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument are all visible. This spectacular vantage point really brought home to me the ease with which Mother Nature’s master builder can eclipse even the most triumphant works of man.

My fears the day may have peaked early were thankfully unfounded, as the afternoon was spent exploring Buckskin Gulch, a never-ending, winding helix of a canyon, one of many for which the region is famous. The hike went through the real wilderness, and the feeling of isolation will appeal to everyone from novice to veteran hikers.

The day ended as all good westerns do, with the hero riding off into the sunset. I was taken on this quintessential south-western American experience by Dell, Amangiri’s resident cowboy, who led me charging through the desert, only slowing to take in the jaw-dropping scenery the region is famous for.

We finished the ride at a secret location in the desert where a special al fresco dinner was waiting for me. I sat on a shelf of Entrada sandstone dining by the light of the fire and enjoying a rustic dinner prepared especially by Amangiri’s own private chef. As the last of the sun’s light faded away, the desert treated me to a spectacular finale as the surrounding rock lit up with the most beautifully bold and intense colours. As John Wayne once said so eloquently, ‘get off your horse and drink your milk.’

Cambridge is only an hour from London, but how different the light, the air, the sounds! And how unexpected this boutique hotel – The Varsity Hotel & Spa – right on the river, where the cobbled streets tinkle with bookish thoughts, where, when the sun falls, the spires of St Johns and Trinity find their reflection in waters on fire with lilac clouds.

You can see all the colleges from this room – the Trinity Suite, with its Venetian beauty dim like candlelight, so that the art nouveau inside bows to the magnificence without; the greens and creams and browns sleeping beneath the floor-to-ceiling windows, and the tremors of 13^th century ghosts whispering in the willows along the banks bring me out onto the private terrace; a Friday of hard work has just been washed away under the monsoon shower, and the wine brought up by a very friendly gentleman is sweet like the heady alpine winds that seem to reach me up here.

Yes – this is why, since its opening, all the punters have been raving about it; back inside the palatial suite, modern conveniences abound – under-floor heating, iPad, wi-fi, Illy espresso on tap, luxury spa products, LCD and a separate lounge with a mini-sports car just sitting there to convince us that the 21^st century means progress, and a painting of the formidable Newton guides the eye above the four poster bed of sighs. And yet, it’s all about this sublime view, of a time when we all had time to sit and read beneath the willows, when medieval became renaissance and gothic beauty was crowned queen.

Upstairs, on the roof – a hang-out lounge & bar come summer – you can see even more…but you get the point – and it’s officially the most unimpaired view of Cambridge ever to see sunset. I recite some Shakespeare and Byron, and my date laughs, and then we walk back inside as the effervescent hotel manager takes us on a tour just to drive home the point that the words boutique and hotel and spa and Cambridge haven’t ever really come together like this before.

To the Conran-designed Spa next door then, with its Jacuzzi that foams against the one-way glass window, the roguish punts drifting on by (perhaps), or cackling students that are dim to the magnum opus of scent and the murmur of shimmering skin within (the beauty treatments here are so popular that the swan-inspired clientele give us a passing wink as they too sigh in anticipation). The gym is good for Pilates and Yoga and any other desired or undesired exertion. But its time to eat – somewhere, we hope, where thoughts do serenely sweet express. Our host leaves us at the restaurant with a firm hand shake, and the plates are large and the steak and baked potato infused with flavours like a lover’s sonnet…

But I knew Cambridge intimately once, and want to see it, and am so inspired now that the words on my tongue are like the night reflected in the water…’all that’s best of dark and bright, meet in your aspect and your eyes, us, mellowed to that tender light…’

The January Package includes breakfast, hour session with a personal trainer, an Aveda massage and facial and access to the Spa: this exclusive offer is available until 10^th February with prices starting from GBP 99 based on two sharing.

The Bespoke Valentines Package: opt for a Byronic candlelit meal, with a bed of roses and champagne awaiting in your Valentine’s Suite of choice.

www.thevarsityhotel.co.uk

01223 30 60 30

The mountainous idyll of Bhutan is the perfect location for anyone with a passion for exploration and an eye for what beauty really is all about. During our stay at Amankora Punakha, the team put together an experience that was simply awe-inspiring.

We breakfasted in the courtyard of the converted farmhouse, situated in the midst of an orange orchard and surrounded by picturesque snow-covered mountains which the sun made golden. We sat and enjoyed the mild tropical winter of the valley, gently serenaded by rice farmers chanting songs while harvesting the season’s rice crop.

Fuelled with guava juice squeezed from fruit we had picked the day before, and thukpha, a tasty porridge made with the local red rice, we set off up the mountain on a forest trail which began in the chef’s herb garden. After an intense climb upwards through dense forest, we reached a small temple at the top of the hill and revelled in the refreshing breeze and spectacular views. Here the hospitable old caretakers invited us for tea and regaled us with stories of the Divine Mad Man; the valley’s charismatic hero known for his teaching but also his uncontrolled lust and staggering womanising skills.

On our descent, we passed a small community school situated in the heart of endless rice terraces and shared our picnic lunch with some children eager to practise their English. Upon reaching the foothills, we were met by a rafting team who, after a brief introductory course, guided us on an hour-long rafting tour through white-water all the way down to the majestic Punakha Fortress – what a stunning way to see the valley! We were treated to sights of incredibly rare birds and enormous overhanging beehives, as we drifted through the colourful landscape, each rapid offering an intense burst of adrenalin and lots of laughs once successfully completed.

Unscathed, we stepped onto dry land and, having survived the ‘Wrathful Buddha’ at the confluence of two rivers, proceeded to end our adventure by mountain biking back to the lodge. Dirty and exhausted, but still riding high on the excitements of the day, we settled into the comfy courtyard couches once again – never has a cold glass of beer tasted so good or felt so deserved!

Visit www.amanresorts.com/amankora/home.aspx

Situated on the staggeringly beautiful Palamican Island in the Philippines, Amanpulo’s luxury is defined by its earth-given beauty. Nestled between lush forest and teeming tropical waters, Amanpulo is a haven for nature, and ready to be explored. You might meander through tropical bush paths where breathtaking birdlife suddenly appears in an overhanging tree, or marvel to yourself as baby sharks catch fish bait and green turtles come to the beach to nest.

The stay is completely tailored to your needs and can be as private or as social as you desire. Amanpulo’s private holiday villas are located just a few meters from pristine, white, sandy beaches and perfectly clear azure waters. Everything is completely, intimately private, with your own pool and dining area to go all al fresco beneath the stars; a butler and prized chef is also on hand to cater to your every whim and desire, employing Palamican Island’s indigenous ingredients in beautiful, hand-crafted dishes that amaze the palate.

Taking time away from the villa, you can enjoy a night out at Amanpulo’s stunning restaurant where the sweeping vista stretches across the bay to Manamoc Island. The enchanting wood and Manila stone finish gives the impression of dining aboard a Spanish galleon and there is also an option to catch your own dinner aboard a fishing excursion which the chef will then prepare to your tastes.

A number of tennis courts and a fully equipped gym provide land based activity but if you want to experience Amanpulo at its best, take to the water. Scuba dive into the coral and swim with turtles, and coming up for air, you will want to try out a massage and beauty therapy or two, available in a range of locations including two air conditioned ‘casitas’ or the open air garden ‘sala’ – where the natural aroma of flowering bougainvillea enhance your sense of tranquility.

And for those who wish to completely evaporate into the surrounding bliss, a villa retreat – each individually designed by your own personal island architect – promises unlimited access to this rare, untouched paradise.

The beauty of Amanpulo is accessible via a scheduled charter flight from Manila, which has links to several major international destinations. Guests are met at Manila’s international airport and taken by complimentary transfer to the Amanpulo lounge, located at a nearby hangar before flying directly to the Island in a 19-seat, twin-engine turboprop.

For further information, please visit www.amanresorts.com/amanpulo.

Winding up the coast of Sotogrande, Southern Spain, NH Almanera is a bewitching haze of pine, eucalyptus and giant palm trees; of sudden vertiginous plunges with tiny red flags that ruffle on pure green fields; of golden sands and pinkish sunsets that fall in the tides along the Straits of Gibraltar. You get closer, and you hear the laughter of those that play good golf, eat good food and know a thing or two about the benefits of deep breathing and dreaming very deeply.

You wake up to views of conifer-lined greens and pearly blue lakes, with mellow horses trailing around fragrant gardens on the fringes of the ocean. You leave your chalet-pad, the one with the king bed and the deep, deep bath, and there is a five-star breakfast waiting, and later there are hydrothermal bubble treatments and yoga sessions at the Elysium Spa. The group I arrive with split off after champagne in the hotel lobby; those professional-eyed types that came to refine their approach shots; those smiling sun-kissed lovers of the mud treatment and tropical rain shower; and those ambiguous, undecided few that catch a buggy ride through the almost perfect silence of Los Pinos, Las Lagos and The Cork Oaks – 27 hole’s of course designed by renowned golf architect Dave Thomas, full of par 3’s and 5’s that hang tight to every hazard in the book.

I marvel as someone swings a club – a really beautiful thing in the winter sun, a thing that obviously requires well crimped shoulder blades to give it the proper edge. To the Spa then…

But I was distracted, and on scoping out the club house and bar, I found that the golf tribe had stopped off to sharpen their blades. Here, everything strikes the eye with the nonchalant gait of the champion; its all dark leathers where you sink to drink the pre-golf martini and talk handicap’s, making out as if you know all about the ‘greens being in brilliant condition’ and the ‘course being just a three iron from the spa’; if not, you might admit that you came to trek horses through the romance of starlit wildernesses, or perhaps, you still don’t know, and you came ‘to just chill’, with a reserved demeanour as you reflect on a solid year, shimmering at the bottom of the glass.

I wanted to talk golf, I really did, but what do I know? And so my next stop was moments away at the Sotogrande Golf Academy, where I stood with other startled amateurs as some suave gent who we knew was a professional hit it 400 yards on his knees while telling us about hip and forearm placement; he soon had the sun-kissed spa-hards hacking the ball out of the turf and then I managed 250 yards, and thought it a good time to celebrate with what one euphoric chap said was ‘the most fun you can have with bubbling mud on your back’ – a beauty treatment that made me shiver as if my whole body was floating above itself in the scented Jacuzzi afterwards.

After a five-course lunch in the Club (Andalucian hams and cheeses and gourmet sensations that need no prior adjective to tempt the palate), I caught up with the ‘real’ golf, the victors standing off to the side, looking just a little too confident to convince me to take up my new swing just yet. Instead, I walked a little distance to find the horse whisperer, a Nordic-looking ex-Polo player called Ferdie with a gilded smile that makes these rare South-American breeds dance over high white gates, and canter Flamenco style to the sound of his clicking jaw as my white beauty stopped and chewed the wild flowers of twilight.

You could cycle to Gibraltar; Marbella is forty five minutes away, and from my horse, now cantering down the hill in search of her stable, through the mistiness, I could see the exotic souks of Tangier across the sea, and decided that the next day I would catch a boat and make it back in time to take on the professionals.

Telephone: +34 95 6582000
Email: almenara@sotogrande.com

Website: www.nh-hotels.com/nh/en/hotels/spain/sotogrande-cadiz/hotel-almenara.html

NH is currently offering a 5% discount on the best available rate. Please note that this is subject to availability.

Monarch offers year-round flights to Gibraltar from London Luton and Manchester airports with fares, including taxes, starting from GBP 38.99 one way (GBP 69.99 return). For more information or to book, visit www.monarch.co.uk.

There are several places in the heart of England that offer beautiful and sweeping landscaped 18-hole golf courses, a stunning stately home venue for conferences, special events and weddings, a Michelin-starred restaurant with one of the country’s most innovative chefs and lavish and extremely comfortable accommodation. The trouble is that most of these amenities tend to be offered separately. All praise, then, to the oh-so-glamorous Brocket Hall, which manages to combine all of these various delights in one extremely desirable package.

The first impression that you get when arriving at Brocket Hall is that of glorious spaciousness. The house itself overlooks a stunning natural water feature, Broadwater Lake, and if you’re going to be holding an event at the Hall itself, you can look at the various stunning rooms inside it, the most notable of which is the Ballroom, which boasts the second longest dining table in England (the first is at Windsor Castle) and where Lady Caroline Lamb, of Byron paramour fame, introduced the waltz to England.  Those of a slightly more prurient nature might enjoy a visit to the Billiard Room, where a former Prime Minister, Lord Palmerston died while, as the euphemisms say, ‘in the arms of a chambermaid’.

If you’re fortunate enough to be holding your wedding at the Hall you can stay in one of the grand bedrooms, such as the stunning Lady Melbourne Suite, but if you’re just visiting for the night, you will be extremely comfortably accommodated in Melbourne Lodge, the carefully converted former stable block.

Many will be familiar with the glamorous Auberge du Lac, which has established itself as one of the best restaurants for miles around (and indeed, perhaps slightly surprisingly, is the only one with a Michelin star in affluent Hertfordshire.) Not only does it offer a stunning and romantic setting overlooking the lake and the hall, but under the careful eye of Executive Chef Phil Thompson, a delectable selection of dishes are on offer such as port and armagnac marinated foie gras served, unusually but brilliantly, with banana, poached fillet of sea bass and roast loin of Balmoral estate venison. It’s every bit as delicious as you’d expect, and expertly matched with a selection of primarily Old World wines by the expert sommeliers.

If you’re into golf, there’s a splendid clubhouse and one of the country’s most beautiful courses. But it’s really not enough to keep on spouting hyperbole – there’s genuinely something for everyone at Brocket Hall, and so whether you’re visiting for a conference, wedding or just a gourmet extravaganza, you’re not going to be disappointed.

Brocket Hall, Welwyn, Hertfordshire AL8 7XG. www.brocket-hall.co.uk

Along with Guernsey the only remaining vestige of the Duchy of Normandy, Jersey remains an unspoilt and charming escape only three hours from London. The island’s outstanding beauty has attracted a significant amount of investment over the years, and the island is full of fantastic hotels and restaurants to explore and enjoy. With fifty miles of coastline, there are plenty of walks and water sports, and inland the quaint Norman farmhouses and sleepy country lanes lend a very French feel to this English-speaking enclave.

Jersey’s hotel market has evolved somewhat over the last few years, and what has thrived is high-end luxury with a contemporary twist. The most renowned hotel is probably Longueville Manor, one of only two five star residences on the island. Set in an historic and elegant 14th century manor house, it is a perfect country escape to relax and indulge in. Indeed, the Longueville Manor restaurant is among the best in Jersey and combines high-level culinary expertise with the use of local produce (much of it grown in its own gardens) to provide first-class Anglo-French cuisine to excite even the most experienced of diners. The wine list that accompanies contains some exceptional wines, with some interesting and surprising selections by the talented sommelier.

For those who prefer to stay closer to town, The Club is enviably situated within the centre of the capital St Helier. With its slick modern feel and stylish boutique opulence it provides an altogether different luxury experience. The Club Spa provides a comprehensive selection of treatments to cater to every guest’s relaxation tastes. But it’s the food that’s the piece de resistance here. The Club’s restaurant, Bohemia, is truly exceptional. One of only two Michelin starred restaurants on the island, it is one of the finest in the British isles. The extraordinary and innovative cooking offers such delights as roast venison with chocolate tortellini and three hour cooked duck egg with new season morels and asparagus, and again offers an opportunity to sample local Jersey produce. All this is complimented by a superb selection of wines and faultless understated service.
Also in St Helier, the recently expanded Royal Yacht Hotel boasts a large selection of modern luxury rooms and spa, and its town centre location and number of bars means that it is great night spot for those who wish to carry their nights on a little later. It also offers a particularly splendid afternoon tea. Visit www.luxuryjerseyhotels.com for more information.

If you venture a little outside of the capital, this is where Jersey really reveals its rustic beauty and charm. The parish of St Brelade with its delightful village set into the bay is home to the Oyster Box, a terrific seafood restaurant which is very popular with locals and tourists alike; the oysters, unsurprisingly, are a highlight. Also in St Brelade is The Atlantic Hotel, which boasts superb sea views and a charming mixture of old and new as well as the Atlantic, the island’s other Michelin starred restaurant. It’s very popular with golf fans as one of the best courses on the island, La Moye, backs on to the hotel.

With some of Jersey’s real gems lying outside St Helier, it is difficult to get a true feel for it without having travelled around the various parts of the island. One easy way to do this is to take a tour of the island. In the summer you may try a cyling or walking tour with the ever-knowledgeable Arthur the blue badge guide or, and if you are feeling a little more adventurous, why not take a tour with the increasingly popular ‘Limobikes’, riding round the island in style leather-clad on the back of a Harley Davidson?

With its tranquil bucolic beauty, impressive hotels and fine dining, there is a great deal more to Jersey than meets the eye. As they say in Jersey, it is a small island with a big personality, and at such a short distance from both Britain and France, it is a relaxing weekend destination that it is very easy to keep returning to.

We’ve also got an exclusive offer for Quintessentially Members. For stays between Jan 1 and March 31st 2011 Members are offered four nights for the price of three at luxury Jersey hotels mentioned, subject to availability. Bookings would need to be made with the hotels direct quoting ‘Quintessentially 4 for 3 offer’ and a membership card would need to be shown at the hotel. The offer applies to all hotels in Luxury Jersey Hotels.

Quintessentially flew from London Gatwick to Jersey Airport with British Airways: book via www.britishairways.com or call + 44 (0)844 493 0787 for reservations and general enquiries.

A new heavyweight boat is in town, sliding through the velvet seas with the sun crisp on its back. If you’re a sucker for seaborne chrome and mother of pearl, and like to stand and watch the horizon go dark blue to black, the wind in your hair, champagne flute gurgling in your hand, this beauty will haunt your dreams until you can afford to sit in one. It’s named Azteca – the name as mysterious as the engineering is ingenious – and was revealed earlier this year at the Genoa boat show to an approving sea of black tie jackets and cocktail dresses.

Built by Ferretti’s Italian yachting brand CRN (Costruzioni e Riparazioni Navali), Azteca is the kind of aesthetic masterpiece that would look perfect in a Fellini epic. The owner’s suite is complete with cinema and massage room, the male and female bathrooms screaming luxury in even the smallest noir-ish detail. There’s a balcony over the ocean – the kind you long for after watching Titanic – and then you can step down onto the terrace and there’s even a beach club down on the water’s edge.

Lamberto Tacoli, the master behind the brand, agrees that it’s the careful and exacting design of the boat that assists in inspiring metaphysical contemplation once aboard; there’s luxury, lots of it – owing mainly to the extravagant facilities on board – but it’s the “strong bond with the sea” that makes the Azteca experience worth the money. Indeed: and yet what exactly is luxury in this context? And how does it change as you take to the ocean, leaving the material world behind as a thousand nautical miles of freedom stretch out in front.

Tacoli’s definition? Time. ‘Today one of the real and greatest luxuries is time. Time to dedicate to family, children, friends and pastimes.” A good point. The feeling of having a world away from the world is surely the primary appeal of yachting – having the liberty to pull up anchor, sail away into the sunset, and discover something new wherever you stop next. On land, it is difficult to get away from the hustle and bustle, no matter where you are, but being out on the ocean, with nothing but you, your loved ones and the salty sea spray is perhaps one of the last true escapes this world has to offer.

For more information, go to http://www.crn-yacht.com/welcome.jsp

The self-proclaimed pearl of the Andaman Sea, the Thai island of Phuket has established quite the reputation as the hedonist’s destination of choice. Famous for its lively nightlife, pristine beaches and backpacker vibe juxtaposed with the numerous five-star resorts and private villas, this year Phuket has welcomed a newcomer to Millionaire’s Mile – Andara, a Preferred Boutique hotel and the brainchild of Hong Kong’s nightlife and entertainment king Allan Zeman. With just 37 apartment-style suites and 26 four to six bedroom villas, word has it that celebrities are flocking to Andara to enjoy the complete privacy offered by the pool suites and villas as well as soaking up all of the glamorous atmosphere.

On my recent stay, home was an 8,000 square foot four-bedroom pool suite decked out with standing Buddha statues, abstract wooden sculptures, subtle mood lighting, warm wooden furniture and Jim Thompson silk. Of course, Andara isn’t without contemporary comforts – oversized pillows, plush beds, automatic blinds, rainforest showers, deep bathtubs and fragrant aromatherapy burners create an atmosphere of unrivalled calm and elegance.
The suite’s 15m private infinity pool overlooks Kamala bay and is a fine choice for those who like to sunbathe close to home. But if you want to experience true island living, then Andara’s pool villas are the best of the best. In traditional Thai style, the rooms are separated by open air courtyards, creating an extraordinarily spacious two-storey living environment. The infinity pool appears to drop off into the horizon beyond, while each villa comes with a housekeeper and chef on call to whip up some yummy Thai or Western nosh and ensure your holiday is completely stress and hassle free.

The Andara Beach Club is a white slice of chic on the laid-back Kamala beach: oversized double beds-cum-loungers are covered with fluffy pillows and thoughtful attendants serve iced water and distribute peppermint-scented chilled towelettes on arrival. They were even so kind as to move the umbrella around the loungers throughout the day to provide constant shade and stand guard over my belongings when I went for a swim – talk about VIP treatment. Andara also has two private motor yachts (28m and 35m) available for in-house guests to rent and explore the Andaman coastline and nearby islands. Full catering services are available for those who like to have their sunset canapés sur la mer and wine and dine their other half en route to Phi Phi or the pristine Similan Islands.

The spa is particularly noteworthy; firstly, for being one of the most beautiful I’ve seen (in-room fountains, double baths and all en-suite), and secondly, for the expert therapists. The traditional Thai massage performed by Aum worked out all of my knots and I left feeling energised, while the black sesame body scrub and Swedish massage duo lulled me into a deep sleep. While I was there, I saw plenty of couples and families from Europe, Asia and beyond, proving that when it comes to the search for perfection, Phuket’s where it’s at.

Quintessentially Members enjoy a number of great benefits at Andara including preferential rates with breakfast included; room upgrade (subject to availability); 10% discount at the spa; 10% discount at the restaurant; late check-out until 4pm (in the low season and subject to availability); airport transfers and a complimentary bottle of Champagne per minimum three nights’ stay (based on penthouse suites and above).

Andara Resort and Villas, 15 Moo 6 Kamala Beach, Kathu, Phuket 83120,
www.andaraphuket.com